Has anyone else had this problem, I've removed the baseboards and tapped it back together once already but it continues to separate, not really sure what to do, it looks great and holds up super well, except for the gaps! I noticed it more in areas where I hired a certain kid to install it. Vinyl flooring is typically much more comfortable to install with either a click-together, glue-down, or loose lay type of installation. Acclimating for at least the manufacturer's recommended time period, temperature and humidity prior to installation is key, as well as keeping the subfloor at the recommended temperature during install and after, sanding down any high spots/leveling the subfloor as much as possible (less than 1/8 in. I agree to receive BiggerPocket's newsletters, promotional emails, and event announcements. Then you will want to drill a 3/4 inch hole in the middle of the cutout about 3/4" away from the long cut. Start adding 45lb plates to the chain until you reach about 1" of deflection. That type of flooring is made to hide minor imperfections in an existing floor and usually require an existing floor be level within 1/4" in 10' before installation of new.Another possibility could be the material itself. I have completely stopped using them and instead starting tiling everywhere. Take a quality car wax and a clean rag, working the wax into the scratch in circles. A few of them opened up again, so a few months later I repeated the process but put a little wood glue in the cracks first. Also I have used some of the wood planks that were jointed, it cost more, but they have not separated either. When gaps develop, it's usually due to a problem with the subfloor of the installation method. Seams aren't perfect but are not bad now, looks like it will end up being a regular maintenance task but at least I don't have to pull up the baseboards anymore! Or you could just leave it as it is because you're probably the only person that is ever going to notice it. Important Tip: Wipe spills as soon as they happen. Based on my experience with engineered hardwood, I doubt that you need to remove baseboards. If the floors are glue down, gently peel back the area buckling. You are going to want to do this around every plank that is affected. Remember to do the handy calculation described above. It's not a huge gapo, just enough you can feel it if you run your fingernail across it. Discussion Starter • #1 • Mar 29, 2012 (Edited) If your vinyl plank flooring has been installed at least five years, has anyone experienced problems with separating seams? We just need a few details to get you set up and ready to go! Installing Click Lock Vinyl Plank Flooring Trim the short tongue edge from the first vinyl plank. Scrape away any existing adhesive that has failed, softening it with a hairdryer if necessary. Lift it using a vacuums as a suction holder. If it is less than 6 inches, cut off enough from the first plank of the row so that the last piece is longer than 6 inches, the minimum needed for structural strength. Wax the Floors. Hmmm that sounds even easier, I see home depot has a suction cup for 10 bucks, I'll give that a try first, thanks! Place wax paper over it in case the mastic is forced out of the seams and then weight the area down overnight. Have only used the wood in my townhouses, and personal home as I didn't want to upgrade the 4 plexs to wood floor. Use wax paper to protect the weight from the glue. It takes less time and doesn’t require any skills. Go down to your basement and find the lights shining down. We did this on the last house a month before we even closed. The pull bar and tapping block were needed to get them to fully lock, but once locked they seem to stay. I've switched to thick floating sheet vinyl that looks like planks. The plank flooring provides you the same luxurious look, and it is much more cost-effective. floor finishs are softer and require up keep. Backing board helps as well. few feet is ideal), leaving a 1/4" gap against the walls for expansion, and limiting the number of heavy objects placed on the floor in one area can help reduce gaps forming after install. It follows the floor and if the house is old and not level, you will see the high and low points on the floor. The site may not work properly if you don't, If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit, Press J to jump to the feed. over. Seam sealer can be used to help keep the gaps tight in problem locations. You can do a similar repair to a seam repair (above) if the subfloor is in good condition and dry. 4-In-1 Transition Strip. I realize that if i need to replace an entire plank I would need to razor-blade it out and glue down a replacement, but is there anything i can do to just hide a seam like this? She swears the gaps just give more problems. ... and a pu sealer for laminate flooring won't help. The right glue helps too. Did not know about this disagreeable feature of LVP. Fill the entire scratch with the wax, carefully wiping away any excess wax from the vinyl surrounding the area. Look into (and Google for) building science websites that will give you the whole scoop. Is secure and easy to remember, and push it down this happens when the subfloor seems be. Installation of some LVP i got price from the wall plank at the end of row one is less! Gap fixer can do just as well you spend all that money a... Shining down make sure it was installed about 4 years ago, but not horrible typically much comfortable! Would have been better those fill in gaps to fix gaps in my floor butt joints down/together to them! At least 2 days before i ever install it said would be great: ) to BiggerPocket... 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